- This is a handgun with escutcheons for both front and rear action screws. One cannot use the usual pillar bedding posts or other aids.
- I am not a pro and do not present this as saleable or expert work. I'm sure there are better ways to do each of these steps. If you wanna post how you'd have done some particular aspect differently that's fine by me.
Onto the project:
The foam fill McMillan used for the action fill of these stocks is soft enough to dent with the fingernail so............
Brownells adjustable pillars are superglued in place after carefully adjusting for length. Straw sections will help keep epoxy from flowing up into the core of the pillars. They are cut short and will press into the core when the action is seated into the stock. Some epoxy still did get into the core which made me glad I caked the action screws and threads with wax before screwing it together.
The foam is so soft on this stock that it's a simple matter to poke a 5/8" butterfly bit through it. Just stop when you feel resistance of bit spinning on the escutcheons.
I tried something new for this job: Took one of the Brownells medium sized syringes and drilled the spout out from the rear with an 8" long 1/8 drill bit. Worked perfectly! I used it like a cake decorators tool to flow epoxy in just the right qtys wherever I wanted. I used Marine Tex for this project because I knew it would flow out of the 1/8" drilled tip. I came out so easily that I think Devcon would also work with this technique.
Marine Tex applied and ready to seat the action. Using the syringe was so much faster, neater and more efficient than trying to paddle it on with a popsickle stick.
Got me one of those pump-top dispensers and loaded it up with Acetone. Worth the $17 and then some.
Tape was laid exactly at the stock line then waxed for easy cleanup. Stock is waxed to of course.
Reaching a Q-tip in to ensure no epoxy has oozed up into the lug area through the forward screw hole.
Tools. Vinegar works well to clean your hands of epoxy and saves exposure to acetone
This 5/8" badger hair artists brush lays down a perfectly thin layer of wax. I was easily able to paint wax onto the receiver bottom without getting any onto the base of the pillar.
The finished job
I got a chance to shoot it today and received an immediate reminder that I am very green at trying to shoot small groups from the bench with a SP.
Groups looked like this with a relaxed hold:
I then tried a firmer hold and forward loading the legs of the bipod a bit and got groups like this:
It's a good shooter, but the muzzle jump is annoying. I don't know if I can have a brake fit to the factory bbl without ruining the accuracy.This message has been edited. Last edited by: Nomo4me,
Thats is a fine looking job, very nice,
Thanks! I've sunk a bunch of $$ into another one of these guns as a full-on custom and have to pillar bed it as well. Doing the 223 was a test run of sorts.
This gun shot 1 - 1 1/4" with a skim bed job. I'm looking forward to getting it back to the range to see if it will now do better.
Nice work. Better than some I have seen from the "pros".
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OP edited to show group pics
Nomo- That is one fine looking bedding job!! I have to ask about one comment--supergluing the pillars to the action?? I've never heard of this being done, but it could solve some problems I've had with Savage rifle rear screws. The screw goes through the triggerguard and the pillar has to be positioned with the notch in just the right direction or you can end up with a difficult filing or grinding job. How do you separate the action from the pillars after the bedding has cured? I keep thinking about the original ads for superglue where they show a 1 sq in bond lifting 2000 lbs. Curious minds need to know!!
FWIW, I have fashioned an 'action puller' for those times when I don't want to use a mallet on a stubborn bedding job. I used a cheap (Harbor Freight) 3" c-clamp ground down so the clamp frame pad would fit into the front receiver ring and a hardwood 'bridge' fitting over the front ring resting on the stock edges. With the clamp's screw pad on top of the 'bridge', light pressure pops the action out of the stock/bedding without pounding on the firearm. This is probably as clear as mud and I do apologize. If I had a rifle torn down, I'd post photos, maybe in a couple weeks if my new barrel ever gets here. Steve
Thanks for the compliment.
I degrease the concave top of the pillar and the mating surface of the receiver with acetone and the pillars will still pop off if bumped. Needless to say, there is no added resistance to pulling the action from the stock after bedding.
I bedded another on of these XP-100R's in 6x47 lapua and it came out better than this job. I've built up the forend to a flat profile (heavy) so completely filled in the magazine well to added rigidity using an interesting method:
I waxed the interior of the magazine box and used it to make a casting of Bondo which was allowed to cure 24 hours. This 'core' was then epoxied into the mag well of the stock. Benefit of this technique is 95% of the shrinkage was eliminated.
Nice looking job, I see that you trust yourself by leaving the scope on. I seem to always get my finger in the epoxy and then touch something I shouldn't then it's all down hill from there. Like the syringe trick too.
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Be very careful when using vinegar around your blued action and screws. Vineager will take blueing off very quickly!
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